Finally! After my laptop decided to give up the ghost on me a couple of weeks ago, I managed to have it brought back to life just long enough to see me through to write this before I get my hands on a new one. And just in time, as I can now round up my favourite shows of this fashion months season’s NYFW and LFW. I’ve been gawping at the amazing shows from the comfort of my sofa, constantly switching between twitter and instagram live to feel a part of it, quickly accumulating a list of shows that I just can’t get over. Somehow, some.how., I’ve whittled it down 6, because no thanks I couldn’t get it down to a nice 5, ok?
(click on image galleries throughout to enlarge.)
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE:
I’ve always appreciated Zadig & Voltaire’s effortless aesthetic of off-beat Parisian cool. However, this season, my appreciation was really kicked up a notch and I found myself declaring “THIS IS MY FAVOURITE SHOW OF NYFW!” Maybe because, this time around it seemed like the usual suspects of Parisian dressing – leather skinny trousers and sweaters, were maybe even edgier, transporting the brand both literally and metaphorically to New York. Stepping from Paris to New York fashion week, the brand appeared even more daring and urban and one thing I cannot get enough of is the outerwear. Interesting, yet never trying too hard, over-sized silhouettes and harsh patterns – the coats were such a highlight for me. Overall, I really felt like Z&G got it spot on and actually gave me the hope that in these items I can look at least 20% as effortlessly amazing as Bella Hadid and Hailey Baldwin did!
You can always expect one thing from Anna Sui – more is more. Taking inspiration from retro decorating tastes, Anna Sui’s AW17 collection involves layers upon layers including: pussy bows, florals, fur, ruffles, brooches and more, all culminating in imagery falling midway between Victorian luxe and New York in the 70s.
The first day of London Fashion Week brought me Fyodor Golan, lighting up my phone with technicolour, bold prints and the definition of exaggeration. I will admit, I only recently discovered Fyodor Golan but I can say, without a doubt, that I could spend hours trawling through the Selfridges website wishing that maybe one day I can spend a heck-load of money on the brands “more is more” and unapologetically off-the-wall aesthetic. FG’s AW17 show most certainly did not derail from this, with huge slogans, neon leopard print and a rainbow patchwork trench coat that I could cry over. Playfulness and homages to the Powerpuff Girls mixed with fierce shapes created an air of feeling both fun and cute and strong and bold.
The Fashion East show at the Tate Modern, showcasing up-and-coming designers, saw Mimi Wade debut a collection of Pink Panther inspired feminine glory. Lace trims, ruffles, fur and corduroy – Mimi Wade expertly finessed a collection of beauty while giving a subtle nod to her favourite films. This included her “Dial M for Mimi” slogan adorning elegant dresses and sweaters that looked like the models had rolled in a cloud, as a tribute to both Alfred Hitchcock and the Pink Panther episode “Dial P for Pink”. I’m not always keen on the most feminine and flirty designs but this collection had such an air of power within it’s femininity that I was completely sold. In. Love.
HOUSE OF HOLLAND:
Ahh, House of Holland – Oh Henry, how I can always rely on you! A print lovers dream, House of Holland filled the AW17 catwalk with cowgirl cool, over-the-top-kitsch and even an appearance from Woody the Woodpecker. Particularly highlights for me were the amazingly enormous faux fur coats in stripes and heart prints, the thigh-high checkerboard boots and the metallic jumpsuit with the most magnificent exaggerated flares. This was by far my favourite show of LFW and brought me to the conclusion that my new dream in life is to be the sassiest cowgirl ever.
Departing from last season’s exploration of the designer’s Indian heritage, Ashish created a collection of empowerment, love and unity to reflect upon the current state of society. A politically charged show made crystal clear statements, particularly of the Trump variety, with bedazzled slogans such as “more glitter less twitter” and the now familiar and always fantastic “pussy grabs back” – Ashish took the protests to the catwalk. And of course, in true Asish fashion, it was ALL done with glitter. The golden glittered runway adorned with glitter poppies was reminiscent of the yellow brick road and the models entered through a glittering broken heart, transporting us all to a fantasy of coming together, feeling joy and embracing love even when left heartbroken.
So there it is; my favourite shows from NYFW and LFW. Some were expected (it’s hard not to love Ashish and HOH) and some were new and unexpected loves for me. Even some of my failsafes didn’t seem to deliver this season, for instance as much as I wanted to love the Marc Jacobs show…I just couldn’t. My boyfriend even described it as “harlem meets harrogate”. But that’s what I love about fashion month, you can never get too comfortable and think you know what’s coming. And with that, I can’t wait to see what is coming for MFW and PFW!