After putting together a collection of reviews from this season’s New York and London fashion weeks (which you can find here), I thought I’d seen the best I was going to see. A lot of shows really blew me away – as much as they can when amazement and joy is tinged with a “but why can’t I be there?!” pity party of course. Oh but then came along Milan and Paris. All I can say is WOW. Oh and that if you make it to the end of this, thank you, I love writing these posts but understand they’re pretty hefty (You can see last season’s opinions here, here, here AND here!) So here is my top 10 shows in all their glory that I just can’t get over.
A really interesting and bold mix of power dressing and streetwear, Versace was (as always) bold, with no fear for print, colour and skin on show. As well as the most incredible array of fur coats, biker jackets and puffer jackets, and a multi-coloured ruffled leopard print mini dress of dreams, the Versace show was heavy on the slogans. Clothes adorned with one word mantras such as “unity”, “courage” and “strength”, Versace claimed power dressing for women without conforming to the usual suits and shoulder pads. I think every woman should take note, we can be “garish” and powerful!
Etro’s show was a particular favourite for me at Milan Fashion Week. Tribal inspired, the collection personified power dressing in a new way – a way worn by colourful, bright, fearless and exploring women. Etro still retained the femininity that is at the core of the brand, mixing busy and bulky coats and outerwear (which were the items I find myself particularly obsessing over…) with floaty dresses and feminine pleats. The famous Etro paisley prints were boldly clashed with bright and psychedelic hues, stripes, faux fur and even dashes of leopard print. Each look was so busy and complex yet gelled so fantastically, giving a sense of the new Etro woman being a powerful complexity that stands strong in her bold decisions.
Somehow, somehow, Prada can make anything look ladylike. Taking a left turn towards Geography teacher chic, it shouldn’t work, and I shouldn’t like it. But it does, and I do. In a display of excess in everything shabby chic, Prada managed to cultivate an elegance in eskimo boots, mohair, tweed and fringing…all at once.
With an insane 119 looks sent out on the runway, featuring both female and male models with outfits that can work for both men and women, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele created intricate, detailed looks that could probably fill a clothes rail each. Whimsical and charismatic, incredible looks whisked down the runway and it was often a question of “is that a man rocking that or a woman? Does anybody care?” the answer is definitely no because all the attention is firmly with the amazing prints, shapes and images that these looks conjure.
DOLCE & GABBANA:
Dolce & Gabbana was most definitely my favourite show of Milan Fashion Week. Not only were the designs just incredible, with the usual bizarre, extraordinary feelings of fashion royalty you can expect from D&G, but there was a wider and even more important message to engage with. A show featuring couples (I mean come on, Pixie Lott and Oliver Cheshire are absolute dreams), families, older models, young models, models of all races and ethnicities, genders, and sizes, D&G proved that diversity is the way forward. To me, beyond the incredible gowns, space designs and adorned leather jackets, Dolce & Gabbana’s show looked the most vibrant and powerful – showcasing the strength of unity and owning who you are. Not to mention, the orange floral wallpaper-esque suit that Sofia Richie wore stirred something in me and right now I would do anything to own that. Good job I recently got myself another rather flamboyant suit I can wear (which you can see a post on here) – for now…
Off-White’s show at Paris Fashion Week featured mature, sophisticated designs that although did not stray entirely from the bold streetwear that has become a staple of the four-year-old brand, did bring a new femininity to the label. Particular favourites that strutted through the murky, leafed trail, were the tailored plaid two-pieces (which Bella Hadid looked especially amazing in, no surprise there!) and the velvet blue patterned biker jacket and tuxedo jacket-styled-dress. Abloh still designed in keeping with his brand’s bold, slogan-fuelled ethos though, shrewdly placing his logo amongst the many items, and bold white slogans such as boots reading “made for walking.” It seems off-white has grown up and matured but not lost the essence of the brand in it’s infancy.
As bonkers as ever, Miu Miu served up retro look after retro look at the end of the most incredible purple velvet staircase. The even more fun and crazy little sister of Prada, Miu Miu created a sea of colour and textures. Enormous faux fur beanie hats accompanied pastel faux fur coats, sixties blouses, diamanté broaches and headbands and gloriously dramatic sunglasses. So fantastically extravagant and retro, I really wish I could live in a Miu Miu world, where more is more and crazy is…well…normal!
I really was not a fan of last season’s Chanel spectacular – the whole technicolour data centre thing just was too much for me. What I can get on board with though, is Chanel’s AW17 collection. Taking us to space, Karl Lagerfeld has filled the collection with the infamous Chanel tweeds mixed with metallics, glitter, and foiled fabrics while channeling the 60s with some serious Twiggy inspired hair styling. It was still expectedly high in grandeur and showmanship, but appeared more demure and actually wearable as opposed to last season. And THOSE BOOTS, no wonder nearly every model wore them, because they really are sent from the glitter space gods. Damn.
FENTY BY RIHANNA FOR PUMA:
Rihanna’s Fenty line for Puma is into it’s third collection and yes, it is hugely popular and yes, I have always thought it’s quite cool stuff. This season, however, is where I find myself full on in-love with her designs and completely on board the kinda-ratchet-in-the-best-way Fenty train! The concept of the show looked so creative and amazing, with the ‘Fenty College’ inspired clothing being echoed in some really imaginative ways – for instance, the college library inspired set up with the models parading down a study-desk catwalk, and the cheeky detention slip invites for the show. Details such as varsity-style stripes and streetwear/atheletic materials were a real winner. Additionally, yellow featured heavily throughout which I am all for, as a shade I’ve really been getting into lately. All in all Rihanna really didn’t go halves on the college theme, dressing her models in looks that seem like they have been pulled from cult film Clueless and then dragged through the hood for good measure. Two things I am particularly obsessed with? The incredible lace up thigh-high boots that look so fierce they could probably injure your haters, and the array of statement puffer jackets. YES!
Saving the best for last, my love affair with the Vivienne Westwood label is only going from strength to strength thanks to this show. This time around, Vivienne’s husband Andreas Kronthaler took the design reins while Vivienne walked in the show herself. She is probably and arguably the most fantastic, kick-ass woman in fashion so why the hell not!? The designs were just as legendary as the woman herself, with incredibly crazy looks featuring paint splatters, humongous sleeves, pin-stripes and punk vibes with of course Vivienne’s staple of tartan. One of my particular favourites was the green funnel-neck jumper boldly emblazoned “PUNK”, as if anyone was under any illusion that Vivienne Westwood isn’t blatantly rebellious and kick-ass enough. Additionally, I couldn’t take my eyes off the concoction of bright purple paint splattered skinny trousers accompanied by a tartan scarf, ‘boob-sketched’ t-shirt and an incredible oversized heat-print jacket. URGH, YOU KNOW WHAT? I LOVE IT ALL.
And Phew! That’s the end of my top 10 and the end of fashion month for another season. Looking back, what shows did you love the most this season? Were there any disappoints in your eyes? Leave me a comment, I’d love to know! 🙂